If I have a cooking show, someday, I might have to call it, Cooking with Captain Obvious. And I will talk about things like how brown butter sauce, although it sounds fancy, is really just when you let butter brown. And then use it for a sauce. Or at least that’s what I think it is.

I am tortured tonight by all the ingredients I do not have to hand: pancetta, cannelloni beans, fresh herbs, leeks … that’s just a start.